Above all, a wine should be balanced. There should be a sense of momentum through the mouth too. Balance is about fruit and acid and
wood and tannin working in harmony (not necessarily of equal measure) to create a sense of beauty and inevitability. While balance might be understood as the Apollonian father, Momentum is about Dionysus; it is what puts the sex in sex-appeal
We know that wine is a living thing. What should be explicit in this, but is often unacknowledged, is that living = energy = purpose. If only in the microcosm of one’s mouth, there should be an energy inherent in the wine (its Momentum) and a purposefulness as it moves from lip to gullet (its Balance). The best of wines tell a complete story. Though a marvel in their youth, these wines (and their stories) only gain in richness and complexity as they evolve and mature.
With the 2010 La Rochelle Chardonnay – Ferrington Vineyard, Tom Stutz was able to craft a wine with great elegance and intent. The Ferrington Vineyard in the Anderson Valley is perhaps better known for Pinot Noir at this point, but it is, as Tom has shown, a wonderful place for Chardonnay too. Made from the Robert Young clone, this wine has a propriety to it. This Chardonnay doesn’t jauntily flaunt its fruit, and its youthful reticence now is in great service to the honed acidity and persistent length. Proper storage will allow this wine to continue to bloom for years.
Great wines compel. La Rochelle – Ferrington is such a wine.